A Day on St Mary’s
Getting to the Isles of Scilly
Getting to the Isles of Scilly doesn’t always go exactly to plan, and I found that out before I’d even made it onto the boat. My original crossing had been cancelled the week before because of the weather, which was disappointing at the time, but that’s part of the reality of travelling by sea to the islands. The Scillonian III has been making the crossing for 49 years, often in some seriously demanding conditions, so there’s always an element of working with the weather rather than against it.
What made this trip even more special was that I nearly didn’t get there at all. After the cancellation, a follower I had never met before stepped forward and offered me two locals rate tickets they could no longer use. It was one of those moments that reminded me there are real people behind the numbers on social media, and without that act of kindness this day simply wouldn’t have happened.
When the crossing finally came around, it felt magical from the start. We left Penzance at sunrise, with the sky glowing over the water as the mainland slowly fell away behind us. Not long after heading out, dolphins appeared alongside the boat, which somehow made the whole thing feel even more special.
Travelling to the Isles of Scilly by sea is more than just transport. It gives you time to feel the distance opening up, to watch Cornwall disappear behind you, and to arrive with a real sense that you’ve gone somewhere different. The Scillonian docks on St Mary’s, the main island, and there was something especially poignant about making that journey during the ship’s final season after almost five decades of carrying people between Penzance and Scilly.
“For me, the crossing became part of the adventure before the island had even properly begun.”
Walking St Mary’s
St Mary’s is one of those places that really rewards being explored on foot. Once you leave Hugh Town behind, the island quickly opens out into quieter lanes, coastal paths, little coves and long views across the water towards the other islands.
I ended up walking more than ten miles during the day, which was probably a bit ambitious for a single visit, but it gave me a brilliant sense of how varied the island is. One minute you’re on an exposed stretch of coast, the next you’re wandering through somewhere greener and softer, then suddenly another beach or view appears around the corner.
You definitely don’t need to cover that much ground to enjoy St Mary’s though. In fact, I’d probably recommend the opposite. Pick one or two areas, slow down, stop for food, have a swim, take some photos and let the day unfold without trying to tick the whole island off in one go.
For me, that’s part of the appeal of St Mary’s. It’s small enough to feel accessible, but still big enough that every part of the island feels slightly different.
Pelistry Bay
Pelistry Bay feels like one of those places that shouldn’t really exist in the UK. White sand, ridiculously clear water and that bright turquoise colour make the whole place feel more Caribbean than Cornish.
It sits on the quieter eastern side of St Mary’s, and that little bit of effort to get there is part of what makes it feel so special. By the time you arrive, it feels tucked away from the busier parts of the island and much more like somewhere you’ve discovered for yourself.
If the weather is good, this is absolutely somewhere I’d make time for a swim. The water is beautiful, the beach feels wonderfully peaceful, and it’s the sort of place where you can quite easily lose an hour doing absolutely nothing.
“Pelistry Bay was one of the standout places on St Mary’s and easily one of those spots I’d recommend saving before a future trip to the Isles of Scilly.“
Carn Vean Café
One of the nicest things about exploring St Mary’s is that the day doesn’t need to be all walking and beaches. Carn Vean Café makes a brilliant stop on the eastern side of the island and fits perfectly into a day heading out towards Pelistry Bay.
I went for a meatball sub, which hit the spot after a fair bit of walking, and paired it with a Scilly Cider that tasted like sweet, sweet nectar from the gods.
That little stop ended up being one of those simple parts of the day that just worked. Good food, something cold to drink, a chance to sit down for a bit and then head back out towards the coast.
If you’re making your way out towards Pelistry Bay, Carn Vean is well worth building into the day. It breaks the walk up nicely and gives you a proper excuse to slow down before carrying on.
For me, that combination of walking, swimming, eating and stopping somewhere good for a drink is exactly what makes St Mary’s feel so easy to enjoy.
Swimming, slowing down and taking it all in
One of the best things about St Mary’s is how easy it is to build a day around simple pleasures. Walk for a while, find somewhere beautiful, stop for food, have a swim, sit with a book, then carry on when you feel like it.
I swam twice during the day and both times felt completely different from the kind of quick dip you might squeeze into a normal week at home. There was something about being on the islands, surrounded by ridiculously clear water and huge open skies, that made everything feel slower.
That’s probably the biggest thing I’d recommend if you’re visiting St Mary’s. Don’t try to turn it into a checklist. Give yourself enough time to wander, stop, change your plans and enjoy whatever you find along the way.
For me, the best moments weren’t necessarily the biggest sights. They were the little pauses in between them.
Planning your own day on St Mary’s
If you’re planning a day trip to the Isles of Scilly, St Mary’s is an easy island to explore on foot, but don’t underestimate the distances if you’re trying to cover a lot in one day. Pick a couple of places you really want to see, build in time for food and a swim, and let the rest of the day unfold naturally. For travel, check the latest sailing information with Isles of Scilly Travel, and if Pelistry Bay is on your list, I’d absolutely make time for Carn Vean Café and a bottle of Scilly Cider along the way. Most importantly, don’t rush it.
The Isles of Scilly are the kind of place that deserve time.
